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How to Spend 8 Awesome Days of Summer in Greece - Part 1 (Mainland Travel Itinerary - Athens, Meteora)


What can I say about Greece. Honestly ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACES I have ever been to! I wish I could visit it over and over again. This was the trip that made me go - 'Oh, I should start documenting my travels to share the beauty of it!' It's an entirely different matter that it took me more than a year to finally publish it. I am slow that way. Anyway...

My adventures in Greece happened from 18th - 27th June 2018. This splendid vacation was undertaken with Mr Chan and we had 8 glorious days there, spending 3 nights in Athens, 1 night in Meteora followed by 2 nights each in Mykonos and Santorini.

For ease of read (since it's going to be a really long article), I will break it down into 2 parts - the mainland leg of the trip (part 1) and then the Island portion (part 2). So hold on tightly to your laptops/tablets/handphones and read away. Trust me, by the end of the post you will be wishing you're on this wonderful country off the coast of the Mediterranean sea...

Getting There (from Singapore)
A 12 and a half hours flight via Qatar airline got us there with a very short stop-over at DOHA.

Suggestion:
  • For those living in Singapore like me, there are cheap Scoot flights that can get you to Athens. These can cost as little as S$500+ (SGD) for a 2 way flight which are great budget options. 
  • Our Qatar flights was quite reasonable at S$830 each (approx USD$600) for a round trip.
In fact I have read of someone spending as little as S$1500/pax for a whole 8 days trip in Greece including airfares. It is possible people!

We reached Athens International Airport at 7.30 p.m. but had no trouble whatsoever getting to the city centre. To purchase metro tickets, you could head straight to the metro station to purchase them through machines.

It was a pretty short journey to our Airbnb as I had booked the accommodation close to Kerameikos metro, which happen to fall on the same line to the airport (blue line: Airport - Douk. Plakentias - Aghia Marina).

Photo Credit: www.urbanrail.net/eu/gr/athens/athens.htm

What was surprising was the cost of the ticket - 10€ each. The metro in Athens is usually not too expensive but I guess anything to or from the airport is not cheap. Taxis from the airport to Athens City Centre cost 38€ during the day and 54€ at night (midnight to 5 a.m.).

Our accommodation was near the Gazi district which is known for its night life but we were not exactly jumping at the idea to explore the area just yet. We did go for a short walk to grab a burger to share.

Tomorrow will be spent exploring the wonders of Athens, one of the oldest cities in the world, by foot. Did I mention our only full day in Athens? This is definitely too little time, I would recommend at least 2 days in Athens for a somewhat comprehensive exploration.

**If you are looking for potential places to stay close to the attractions, Plaka district, Koukaki, Thission, Syntagma and Monastiraki are all good options. Gazi district where we stayed is also a good area though a little further out.

Day 1 - Archaeological Sites of Athens (Kerameikos Cemetery, Ancient Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Acropolis and its Slopes)

With just 1 day in Athens, we decided if nothing else, it was an absolute MUST to visit The Parthenon in Acropolis! We were both keen to see this impressive 5th century B.C. temple that was built and dedicated to "Athena the Virgin", the Greek goddess of wisdom, war and civilisation, who was also the Patron of Athens city.

The Parthenon! Such an amazing sight even from afar!

Living close to Kerameikos metro, we were not exactly close to most of the attractions but taking the metro can get you there pronto. The nearest metro to most of the attractions are Monastiraki and Thissio.

We opted to walk instead and Kerameikos cemetery was the closest and became our first site of the day. It was a really good decision to start here as the ticket booth had no queue and getting the tickets was real quick. There is usually a long queue to get tickets at the other attractions.

We purchased a combo ticket that allowed us to visit 7 different attractions for 30€ and the ticket is valid for 5 consecutive days. All the attractions include:

  1. Acropolis and Slopes
  2. Ancient Agora (and the Museum of the Stoa of Attalos)
  3. Roman Agora
  4. The Library of Hadrian / Hadrian's Library
  5. Olympieion / Temple of Olympian Zeus
  6. Kerameikos (and its Museum)
  7. Lykeion of Aristotle  

Suggestions:
  • Very worth it to get the combo ticket. (Even for us with only one day to sight-see and probably no hope of completing all 7 of them.) A single ticket alone to the Acropolis can cost 20€ during the peak season
  • During off season around November to March, it might be cheaper to purchase individual tickets if you are going to a select few attractions as there are individual ticket discounts of up to 50%. Do check on that. 
  • If you are a student, remember to bring your student card with you as you could take advantage of student discounts!
We managed to cover 3 of the attractions before lunch by walking the whole way.

Kerameikos

This was the most famous of all the cemeteries in Ancient Athens, located just outside of the city walls and used since the 9th century B.C. until Roman times.

Before the area became a cemetery, it used to be a potters' quarter, with many pottery workshops conducted. The Greek word 'Keramos' means pottery and it is also the name of the son of Dionysios and Ariadne, who was the protector of potters and from whom the name of the cemetery could have derived.


Be sure to check out the Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos as well. Here you will find artifacts obtained from archaeological excavations such as sculptures, figurines, stelae and vases.

Ancient Agora

The Ancient Agora was a place where the ancient people of Athens used to meet and interact with each other. Discussing social and political issues, roaming the marketplace or indulging in a little spiritual activity. A place for many diverse activities. The word 'Agora' means a gathering / meeting place.

Today, the Ancient Agora is a huge site consisting of several impressive structures like the Temple of Hephaestus and the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles. Impressive because of how ancient they are and how long ago they were built.

The Temple of Hephaestus is one of the best preserved temples of Ancient Greece, built around the same time as the Parthenon, if not earlier. It is dedicated to Hephaestus, the Greek God of fire, metalwork, blacksmith, etc.

Though not as famous as the Parthenon, the Temple of Hephaestus was really just as impressive I feel. Definitely don't miss this one!

Temple of Hephaestus

The impressive columns of the Temple of Hephaestus

The Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostle is the only other structure apart from the Temple of Hephaestus within the Ancient Agora to remain intact since it was built, sometime in the late 10th century.

The Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostle

The torso of the Roman Emperor Hadrian, a great admirer of Greek culture.

Statue of the Roman Emperor Hadrian

The Ancient Agora also used to house the Stoa of Attalos, where the people of Ancient Athens used to meet and do business. The building that was completely destroyed by invading Heruli in 267 A.D.

The current building you see, the Museum of Ancient Agora, is actually a restored building that was built on the original foundations of the Stoa of Attalos using the original materials found on site. It was built to closely resemble the actual Stoa of Attalos.

The columns of the Stoa of Attalos

Entrance ticket includes access to the Museum of Ancient Agora which house a vast collection of sculptures, remnants and ruins from the Ancient Agora.

Hadrian’s library

A library built by the Roman Emperor Hadrian, one of the largest structures he ever built. What currently remains of the site though does no justice to the magnificence of the building in ancient time, which had a hundred of those columns.

It's the structures on the right of the picture. Not sure why we focused so much on the other building.

Yes I know. Of all the sites we covered, this looks a little lacklustre. Very little of the original library structure remains.

Do take note of closing hours for all the sites because some attractions close earlier than others. The Hadrian library closes at 4 p.m., at the time of our visit.

For lunch, there were many restaurants and eateries readily available near the Ancient Agora and Hadrian’s library but I had read about a place and wanted to try it - The Secret Underground Restaurant near the Athens Central Market.

The entrance to the place is located at street level but taking a few steps down brings one into the below street level taverna. The place isn’t easily visible as there are no signs pointing to it. We in fact passed it and had to double back. Just trust Google maps and you will get there.

Once inside, we were a little lost as to what to do because I don’t think the staff really knew how to speak English. But one has to commend the hospitality of the place as we were promptly served with a pint of beer, some fish, bread and chickpea soup without a single word exchanged.

As usual I forgot to take proper pictures of the food!!! But you can see the salad and chickpea soup (on the left)

The chef (and I believe he is the owner too) did ask if we wanted salad to go with the meal and so we had salad as well. The chickpea soup was simply delicious and went very well with the bread! After the meal, we were given a huge complimentary plate of cut honeydew!

By that point we were so full, our stomach felt like it might explode. Plus the beer made us a little light headed. As you can guess we didn’t manage much sight-seeing after. Decided to go straight to the Acropolis.

I am quite embarrassed to admit that we got a little lost getting there. Yes, the Parthenon is very much visible from a distance but we had to find our way up and just couldn't find the path.

Did I mention we were slightly light-headed at that point? I am going to attribute that to us getting lost. A little asking around and following signs finally led us there. 

Acropolis

And then, we were there at the Parthenon, perched atop the hill of the Acropolis. Though the structure is white in colour these days, it is thought that the building was brightly painted in ancient times.

It is also believed that the Parthenon served as a replacement for an even older temple of Athena that was destroyed by the Persians around 480 B.C.


Restoration works can be seen at portions of the structure, that have lasted for more than 30 years. It is interesting to note that the Parthenon itself was built in less than 10 years.


Erechtheion, an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Athena and Poseidon. The image shows the south side of the temple with the Caryatid porch, which consist of six massive female statues supporting the structure of the porch on their heads.

Caryatids of the Erechtheion, found close to the Parthenon

From atop the Acropolis, the view of Athens city is incredible!

Make sure to get some great bird eye view pictures!

Very commonly overlooked are the North and South Slope of the Acropolis

The Theatre of Dionysus can be found on the south slope of the Acropolis. Considered the first theatre of the world and the birthplace of Greek drama, it can accommodate a huge crowd of up to 17 000 people.

Theatre of Dionysus

We didn't have enough time to visit the north slope but definitely try to visit it! It is said to have many shrines along the pathways and in caves.

We ended the visit to Parthenon around the closing time, 7 p.m. in the summer months. It was also our last exploration of the day.

Suggestion:
  • The Parthenon is the most crowded attraction of the seven and this is especially so in the morning/early afternoon. Avoid queuing for tickets here! Get the combo tickets from another location.
  • Queues into the attraction itself is massive. You could visit in the late afternoon like we did for a slightly less crowded experience. We didn't have to queue to enter!
Unfortunately, we couldn't visit the rest of the archaeological sites but I would recommend visiting the Temple of Zeus too, once the largest temple in Greece.

Plus the Panathenaic Stadium is a just short walk away from this site. This is the only stadium in the world built entirely out of marbles!

The attractions that we missed included:

Roman Agora, built by the Romans to replace the Ancient Agora. A smaller sized Agora compared to the older one.

Olympieion, a temple dedicated to Zeus, the king of all Gods.

Lykeion of Aristotle, a place of learning in ancient Athens, where philosophy, mathematics and rhetoric was taught. Aristotle being one of the more prominent teachers there.

As you can see, most of Day 1 was spent just covering the archaeological sites of Athens. There was little chance to explore the neighbourhood of Monastiki or Plaka. If you are interested in doing that, do add another day or so for Athens in your itinerary!

Day 2 - Meteora (5 hours train ride, sunset tour)

Meteora literally translates to 'suspended in the air' or 'in the heavens above' and what an apt bestowed upon this region, with its giant rock formation and monasteries perched upon them.

Today was perhaps the part of my Greece travels that I was most looking forward to. We had to rise and shine early to get to Meteora where we were going to overnight.

Catching the 8.20 a.m. train (TrainOSE S.A.) from Larissa station (on the red line of the metro system) to Kalambaka station, we reached in about 5 hours. Kalambaka town is a rather small town so it was possible to walk to our Airbnb where we dumped our overnight bags and left immediately to grab some lunch.

Before lunch, we went to book bus tickets for our return to Athens the next afternoon. You could return to Athens by train or bus.

We decided to go with the bus (KTEA) because it suited our plans better. We would be able to leave Kalambaka earlier at 2 p.m. and reach Athens earlier around 7.45 p.m., which was ideal for us because it allowed us to spend a few more hours in Athens for our last evening. Tickets cost us 31.50€ per pax.

If a train suits you better, there is one departing Kalambaka station around 5.22 p.m. and reaching Athens around 10.12 p.m. It is easy enough to check the train schedule on their website.

Suggestion:
  • Get your train tickets online and through their mobile app (TRAINOSE S.A. app). There is a 10% discount purchasing the tickets this way. 
  • If you are able to plan your Greece travels one or two months in advance, there is a further 10% discount for early purchase.
  • Booking two way tickets give additional 20% discount on the return tickets.
  • Other discounts for groups, children etc., available as well. Do check their website!
The train tickets cost us 14.80€ per pax with the 10% discount for booking via the mobile app and booking the tickets a month in advance.

*** Checking the Trainose website in May 2019, I found that the journey from Larissa to Kalambaka can now be accomplished within or under 2 hours. More reason for you not to miss BEAUTIFUL METEORA!!

One of our first views of the rocks. More impressive views follow.

For lunch, we found ourselves at the Meteora Restaurant which was a short walk from the KTEA office.

The food was delicious and the staff friendly. We got the lamb and veal from the special menu. Somehow I ended up eating lots of lamb during this Greece vacation and enjoyed each one very much.

The Sunset tour was due to start at 4.30 p.m. We had signed up for this tour with Visit Meteora for a quick acquaintance of Meteora since we didn't have much time to explore on our own.

This is a guided tour in a mini-van that will drive by the six active monasteries, making some stops along the way. Most importantly, it will bring us to a beautiful spot to watch the sunset!

Here are just some of the monasteries we encountered on the tour.


Monastery of the Holy Trinity featured in the James Bond movie, For Your Eyes Only.

Can you spot the hidden monastery? It is called St. Nicholas (Badovas).

Holy Monastery of Varlaam 

A stunning view of the rocks!

We also entered the St. Stephen's Holy Monastery, which was one of the two monasteries in Meteora run by nuns rather than monks. The other being Monastery of Rousanou.

This is an additional 3€ that isn’t covered by the tour. To enter though, make sure you are properly covered. Knee-length or longer shorts and skirts.

St. Stephen's Holy Monastery

The inside was a rather simple and pretty place, nothing too spectacular but honestly, I wanted the chance to enter at least one of the monasteries and I did!



In addition to that, you could enter the Byzantine church of Virgin Mary for an additional 2€. This is one of the oldest monuments of Meteora, a 4th or 5th century church which is actually even more ancient than the oldest of monasteries in town! Our guide gave a very compelling talk of the history and significance of the church that held even the interest of my non-spiritual self.

Both the St. Stephen's Holy Monastery and Byzantine Church of Virgin Mary are optional add-ons. You don't have to pay the additional fee if you don't wish to enter it.

Also note that depending on the day of your visit, the monastery you get to enter also changes. The tour only allow entry into one monastery.

The highlight of the tour for me is obviously witnessing the sunset amidst the rocks that Meteora is so famous for. The feeling was just inexplicable.

For a few precious moments as the sun descended behind the rocks it’s as if peace had descended upon the whole area. In that moment I felt like there was not a place in the world more beautiful.



Sunset Point

The tour ended around 9 p.m. and we were dropped off at the Visit Meteora office. They do drop-off at certain hotels but not to Airbnb.

Walking back to our Airbnb, we made a stop at one of the food places to eat. And once again I was blown away by the true hospitality in Greece. The kind elderly lady who runs the place with her husband, went to the trouble of specially preparing a meal suitable for my dietary restriction. Her husband later offered us a complimentary plate of fruits.

I honestly couldn’t remember a time when I met so many generous and kind people, yet I was blessed to have met a number of them during my Greece travels.

I truly wish I had remembered the name of their restaurant so I can share it with all of you but for the life of me I can’t seem to remember! I do know from the Visit Meteora office, you walk pass the Meteora Restaurant to a street with shops on both sides. It's one of the shops on the left selling gyros and grilled meat. Really cussing myself for not taking better note of it!

I have made a strict mental note to myself that next time I meet such kind and giving people, I am going to remember details so I can send you their way. 

Day 3 - Meteora / Athens (Scramble tour, approx. 6 hours bus ride)

We woke up to our Airbnb host’s homemade breakfast- coffee, toast and some scones. This Airbnb accommodation was really wonderful!

The host’s mum was a lovely woman who made us feel very comfortable during our stay. The place was also clean and pretty plus it was really close to the rocks of Meteora, particularly the Agios Stefanos.

See how pretty the place is! (Do ask me for the details if you are interested)

There is even a trail nearby that you can walk along to explore the rocks. We didn’t end up doing this as we were a little short of time. But I would honestly recommend those of you who love morning walks to embark on this hike! I can only imagine how beautiful it will be! 

Today we were going for the Hiking and Scramble tour of Great Saint and I was excited!! It was the first time I was actually going to do any kind of climbing out in nature with proper climbing gears.


If you are considering this tour, all the tools and gears are provided by the guide. Only a maximum of 6 people are allowed to go along with one guide. One advice for all you aspiring climbers though is to wear a good enough pair of shoes, preferably one with good grips.

It’s possible to climb with any regular pair as I did but it is definitely harder. My shoes were quite slippery on the rocks and I literally had to go on all fours to make the climb! That was when I truly appreciated why it was called a SCRAMBLE tour.

Mr Chan scrambling his way up the hill

Also, wear fully covered clothes! I didn’t wear full length sleeves and scraped my elbow at one point. Ouch! Thank God I wore full length yoga pants or my legs would have been badly scraped too.

Me doing a descent and guided by Kostas. He was a great guide!

For those who aren’t interested in scrambling around, there are other less physically demanding tours like the Hiking tour or the Half-Day Sightseeing tour that also happens in the morning. I did read positive reviews about them.

If tours are not your thing, there are bike or car renting options you can look into. Or you can just wander around on your own on the various trails. I swear when you’re in Meteora, just the fact that you are there is magical in and of itself. 

The scramble tour ended at approximately 12 noon and we grabbed lunch at Meteora Restaurant (again!) before heading to the KTEA office to wait for the bus to Athens. The bus was scheduled to depart at 2 p.m. but it was slightly late. I have heard often enough that when travelling in Greece, patience is a virtue.

So if you plan to visit Greece, my best advice to you is to be on a look-out for comfortable waiting spots as you will probably need to do that quite often for the buses and ferries (more on that in part 2).

The bus back took approximately 6 hours! We managed to catch some not-very-comfortable nap on it. Obviously the train would have been more comfortable. The bus passed through another town nearby, Kastraki. If you have more time to spare in Meteora, you could drop-by this town for a visit. It’s easy enough to travel between the two towns by bus.

Kalambaka and Kastraki are really close by (Photo credit: Meteora Hotel)

I had planned on going to Filopappou Hill once we returned to Athens to catch the sunset. It was near enough to Kerameikos but we were feeling pretty drained by then. If you are inclined, do head over especially at sunset. The view from the top looks amazing!

For dinner, we went to the falafel place just below our Airbnb, FalafelinasHighly recommended from me. Do check it out if you are craving yourselves some tasty falafel! Address is Paggeou 2, Gazi, Athina 118 55, Greece.

The people serving us were really kind, allowing us to taste some of their specialties to see if we would like to add them into our wrap. And it was simply delicious! I can’t remember what exactly it was but the egg was fried with some cheese and then they used their special potato fries.

So back up to the apartment we went with our falafels. To eat while watching the world cup. Honestly couldn’t have asked for a better last day in Athens to conclude our mainland leg of the journey!

As you can see, one day is really not enough to explore all the wonders of Athens. Two or three days will be a good bet.

If you have more than a day in Greece, I would suggest visiting other sites like the Temple of Zeus and the Panathenaic Stadium or just roaming around Syntagma Square, Plaka or Monastiki. If you have even more time on hand, why not take a day trip to Delphi.

*Do read Part 2 of my Greece trip that will cover our visit to the islands of Mykonos and Santorini! In the meanwhile, if you plan to travel to any of the Greek island, you could check out Travelling to the Greek Islands by Ferries.

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