South Korea, a country known for the spicy kimchi, groovy K-pop, romantic K-drama and more recently for its Oscar-winning film, Parasite! I couldn't have been more happy to visit the country's capital with Mr Chan. We spent a total of 9 days in Korea, 5 of them in Jeju and the other 4 in Seoul from 22nd - 30th of September 2018. Because we were very unproductive in Jeju, I thought the itinerary could be cut to just 4 days, hence the 8 days in the title.
This Seoul itinerary is a portion of the entire 8 days in Korea itinerary. I have done a 4 Days Jeju Itinerary separately that you could read if you intend to cover Jeju in your own trip. Otherwise this article can be a stand alone read.
I will also write up a post on Climbing Mount Hallasan in Jeju, South Korea's highest peak. It was practically one of my first mountain treks!
To get started... (SKIP if you have read my Jeju post)
The currency used in Korea is the Korean won. 1 USD converts to roughly ₩1,200 while 1 SGD converts to about ₩850. I will be stating prices in won throughout the post.
September to November is autumn season in Korea and it starts to get a little cold. If you are like me - you freeze at 15 to 18°C, bring some warm clothes because that's how cold it can get.
Disclosure (You could SKIP this part too)
Some of our vacation dates fall during the Chuseok holiday, which is their biggest holiday. Be warned that some of the places of attraction and stores are closed during this period. It is also almost impossible to book domestic flights as most Koreans fly back to their hometowns. Other modes of transport like ferry might be fully booked too.
So without boring you further...
I will also write up a post on Climbing Mount Hallasan in Jeju, South Korea's highest peak. It was practically one of my first mountain treks!
To get started... (SKIP if you have read my Jeju post)
The currency used in Korea is the Korean won. 1 USD converts to roughly ₩1,200 while 1 SGD converts to about ₩850. I will be stating prices in won throughout the post.
September to November is autumn season in Korea and it starts to get a little cold. If you are like me - you freeze at 15 to 18°C, bring some warm clothes because that's how cold it can get.
Disclosure (You could SKIP this part too)
Some of our vacation dates fall during the Chuseok holiday, which is their biggest holiday. Be warned that some of the places of attraction and stores are closed during this period. It is also almost impossible to book domestic flights as most Koreans fly back to their hometowns. Other modes of transport like ferry might be fully booked too.
So without boring you further...
Day 1 - Han River, Fish Market, xxx Market
We arrived in Seoul from Jeju at the Gimpo International Airport. It was real lucky that Air Busan had a few seats left and we had booked it almost four months in advance! Remember to book early if you are doing an end September / early October trip. Or maybe just avoid this period.
If you require WiFi, you could check out the pocket WiFi (WiFi egg) from SK Telecom at the airport itself. Cost us ₩3,300 a day including VAT (value-added tax). There are SIM card options too if you prefer those.
We had gotten our WiFi egg at Jeju but could actually return the WiFi egg to the SK Telecom shop at the Seoul Incheon Airport from where we would depart Seoul. You could return it to any of their branches around Korea which makes it super convenient!
Getting around Seoul
It is easy to travel around Seoul using their elaborate system of Metro Lines. Just make sure you get the rechargeable T-money card that can be easily purchased at any convenience store like 7-eleven, CU, GS25, etc. The card itself cost ₩3,000.You can top up your card at the vending machines inside the subway and metro stations.
T-money card can also be used for bus rides. Just remember to tap twice once when boarding and then when alighting for transfer advantage.
Fee for both subway / metro and bus is charged per trip (about ₩1,250) so doesn’t matter if it's a short or long trip as long as it is within 10 km. It is possible to also purchase Single Journey Tickets for every trip on the subway. A deposit of ₩500 is required for each ticket which you could refund at any ticket vending machine. If you are not planning to use much public transport, you might consider this option because refund on the T-money card is not possible.
Trips to and from the airports can be done via the train, bus or taxi.
If you require WiFi, you could check out the pocket WiFi (WiFi egg) from SK Telecom at the airport itself. Cost us ₩3,300 a day including VAT (value-added tax). There are SIM card options too if you prefer those.
We had gotten our WiFi egg at Jeju but could actually return the WiFi egg to the SK Telecom shop at the Seoul Incheon Airport from where we would depart Seoul. You could return it to any of their branches around Korea which makes it super convenient!
Getting around Seoul
It is easy to travel around Seoul using their elaborate system of Metro Lines. Just make sure you get the rechargeable T-money card that can be easily purchased at any convenience store like 7-eleven, CU, GS25, etc. The card itself cost ₩3,000.You can top up your card at the vending machines inside the subway and metro stations.
T-money card can also be used for bus rides. Just remember to tap twice once when boarding and then when alighting for transfer advantage.
Fee for both subway / metro and bus is charged per trip (about ₩1,250) so doesn’t matter if it's a short or long trip as long as it is within 10 km. It is possible to also purchase Single Journey Tickets for every trip on the subway. A deposit of ₩500 is required for each ticket which you could refund at any ticket vending machine. If you are not planning to use much public transport, you might consider this option because refund on the T-money card is not possible.
Trips to and from the airports can be done via the train, bus or taxi.
Floral Hotel ShinShin Seoul Myeongdong
Our hotel was located within the Myeondong area that is very close to City Hall station. It was just a short 20 -25 minutes ride from Gimpo Airport. Getting to Incheon Airport for our departure flight took over 1 hour and 20 minutes via train. There is also a bus you could take from the city that gets you there quicker within about an hour.
I enjoyed my stay at this hotel. The staff were friendly, the location super convenient and the room comfortable.
Lunch at Aeseong Hoegwan Hanwoo Gomtang
Lunch was at a beef broth (Gomtang) restaurant just a short walk from the hotel that we found in our search for good food around City Hall and Myeongdong area. Address is 23, Namdaemun-ro 5-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul.
I honestly quite loved it! The flavor was light but yummy, the beef briskets tender. Soup dishes are kind of my thing and this one was good. Mr Chan found it just alright.
Our hotel was located within the Myeondong area that is very close to City Hall station. It was just a short 20 -25 minutes ride from Gimpo Airport. Getting to Incheon Airport for our departure flight took over 1 hour and 20 minutes via train. There is also a bus you could take from the city that gets you there quicker within about an hour.
I enjoyed my stay at this hotel. The staff were friendly, the location super convenient and the room comfortable.
Lunch at Aeseong Hoegwan Hanwoo Gomtang
Lunch was at a beef broth (Gomtang) restaurant just a short walk from the hotel that we found in our search for good food around City Hall and Myeongdong area. Address is 23, Namdaemun-ro 5-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul.
I honestly quite loved it! The flavor was light but yummy, the beef briskets tender. Soup dishes are kind of my thing and this one was good. Mr Chan found it just alright.
Han River
Hop onto the bus to the Han River for a stroll. Mr Chan had seen it featured in some Korean drama he watched so he was keen to be at that place. We didn't really do much here because we came unprepared but there are loads you could do if you are better prepared.
Some things to do include:
If you can stay until late, the night time view of the river is quite beautiful!
And of course, take advantage of the photo taking opportunities...
Noryangjin Fish Market
There were two of these markets close to each other, the new and old one while we were visiting. We decided to visit the old one because it gave us more of the 'fish market' feel.
It was interesting to stroll by the stalls and observe the vendors at work and marvel at the variety of seafood on display.
This sign leads to the new market that we didn't go to.
Dongdaemun Market
A huge commercial district filled with traditional markets as well as shopping centers. Clothes, shoes, accessories, makeup, electronics. Anything you could think of, you will probably be able to find here. And food... Lots of them! If you would like some grilled fish, do check out the Grilled Fish Street.
Hop onto the bus to the Han River for a stroll. Mr Chan had seen it featured in some Korean drama he watched so he was keen to be at that place. We didn't really do much here because we came unprepared but there are loads you could do if you are better prepared.
Some things to do include:
- Rent a bike and cycle
- Water sports like kayaking, water skiing, boating or for the very adventurous, flyboarding
- Camping / Picnic-ing
- Fishing
- Book a river cruise
- Cook and eat ramyeon, Korean instant noodles
If you can stay until late, the night time view of the river is quite beautiful!
And of course, take advantage of the photo taking opportunities...
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| Lots of locals camping out |
Noryangjin Fish Market
There were two of these markets close to each other, the new and old one while we were visiting. We decided to visit the old one because it gave us more of the 'fish market' feel.
It was interesting to stroll by the stalls and observe the vendors at work and marvel at the variety of seafood on display.
This sign leads to the new market that we didn't go to.
While you are there, you could purchase some seafood and have it cooked immediately on the spot for consumption!
A huge commercial district filled with traditional markets as well as shopping centers. Clothes, shoes, accessories, makeup, electronics. Anything you could think of, you will probably be able to find here. And food... Lots of them! If you would like some grilled fish, do check out the Grilled Fish Street.
Day 2 - Gwanghwamun Square, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Mapo-Gu (Hongdae Street)
Today’s agenda included visiting one of the five grand palaces in Seoul, exploring the Bokchok Village and rounding it all up
with a visit to Mapo-Gu / Hongdae Street. I have to say this was perhaps my favorite day
in Seoul.
Lunch at Myeongdong
Myeongdong has a good number of eateries that you could pop into for a good meal. We were feeling quite adventurous and randomly chose a restaurant. The problem with that is that I can't for the life of me remember the restaurant's name!
But the dish I ordered was actually really quite good. Some non-spicy seafood noodle soup.
Lunch at Myeongdong
Myeongdong has a good number of eateries that you could pop into for a good meal. We were feeling quite adventurous and randomly chose a restaurant. The problem with that is that I can't for the life of me remember the restaurant's name!
But the dish I ordered was actually really quite good. Some non-spicy seafood noodle soup.
Mr Chan had ordered some Jjajangmyeon (noodles in black bean sauce) that we unfortunately didn't take a picture of.
Gwanghwamun Square
Taking a short bus ride away after lunch and we were at Gwanghwamun Square where the following huge sculpture of Sejong the Great is prominently visible. He is the fourth king of the Joseon Dynasty who ruled between 1418 - 1450 from the age of 22. Considered as one of the best kings of Korea, he is known for inventing the Korean alphabetic system (Hangul, also Hangeul).
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| Sejong the Great |
There is a gallery nearby that showcases "The Story of King Sejong", featuring various artifacts and materials that portrays the life and accomplishments of the great king.
Nearby you will see another huge statue this time of Admiral Yi Sun-Shin, a naval commander who is a greatly admired national hero. He was famous for his many victories against the Japanese navy during the Imjin War in the time of the Joseon Dynasty.
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| Admiral Yi Sun-Shin |
Gyeongbokgung Palace
Just a short walk away located to the North of Gwanghwamun Square is the Gyeongbokgung Palace which was the main royal palace during the Joseon Dynasty serving as the home of the kings and his household and government. It also happens to be the largest of the five palaces in Seoul.
Here standing at Gwanghwamun Square, you can see the Gwanghwamun Gate. This is the main and largest gate leading to the palace.
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| View of the main gate of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, Gwanghwamun Gate |
The guards at the main gate of the palace are clad in the brightly coloured royal uniforms. The uniforms, accessories and weapons are all reminiscence of the actual guards' during the Joseon Dynasty.
You could take pictures with them. Just make sure not to stand too close.
At 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. there is a 10 minutes Gate Guard-on-Duty Performance right at the entrance of the palace.
Beyond the main Gwanghwamun Gates around the area to the right (outside the Hyeopsaengmun gate), you could catch the Sumungung (gatekeeper) Military Training at 9.30 a.m. and 1.30 a.m. This takes place for about 15 minutes.
While just inside the main gates, the re-enactment of the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony occurs at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. and lasts about 20 minutes.
You don't technically need to purchase the entrance ticket to the palace if you only wish to view the three ceremonial re-enactments as these could all be done free of charge. The ticket allows you to explore the extensive insides of the palace, the gardens within the palace grounds, its lake buildings and more.
If you are interested in experiencing being decked out in one of the royal guard's uniforms, head over to Sumunjangcheong Building for a taste of it just before or after the Guard Changing Ceremony. Do note that you will only have about 10 minutes in the costumes so be quick to click away at your cameras.
For the more adventurous who wish to feel like the Korean Kings and Queens, you could look into making reservations for these costumes.
Bukchon Hanok Village
A short walk from the Gyeongbokgung Palace brings you to the Bukchon Hanok Village, an area filled with plenty of Hanok (traditional Korean house) and is meant to give a sense of what a 600 year old Korean settlement is supposed to look like.
You could wander about the neighbourhood admiring the pretty houses with their elaborate details and the peaceful, serene alleyways. Click away to your heart's content because its all so quaint.
Just note that the village is an actual residential area so try not to make too much noise while you are there. There are some personnel around to ensure that noise levels are kept to the minimum.
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| Gahoe-dong Alleyway |
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| A pretty corner |
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| A really cute doorway! |
Grab some Hotteok (Korean sweet pancake) and Sikhye (Korean sweet rice drink) as you explore the village.
Mapo - Gu (Hongdae Street)
A lively and hip neighbourhood owing to the student population within the area. Hongdae street, an area close to Hongik University and within Mapo-Gu is vibrant with the arts and music scene. There are lots of rooftop bars and quirky shops in the area that you could leisurely explore.
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| Yup totally clueless of my sneaky snap |
Some of the street arts...
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| Visiting a shoe shop |
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| Street food stall |
Sulbing Korean Dessert Cafe
Located at 15 Hongik-ro 6-gil.
There is a huge selection of desserts at this cafe. So many interesting choices that it made my mouth water. In the end we chose to go for the regular Bingsu, with red bean and chopped nuts toppings.
Try to get a window seat at the second floor. Gives you a good view of the street and the activity below.
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| View from the second floor window |
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| Strolling about the Hongdae area |
Dinner at a Skewer Place
Along Hongdae Geotgo Sipeun Street. I can't seem to locate the restaurant anymore, not sure if it still remains. There are loads of other restaurants in the area though where you could enjoy a good meal.
Be sure to watch a street performance at Hondae Street after dinner. It will surely give you the groovy K-pop vibe!
Day 3 - DMZ / JSA tour, Hyundai City Outlets, Dongdaemun Market
Today we had an early start to the day with the DMZ (demilitarized zone) tour which was quite a last minute decision. We managed to book it through our hotel just two days before with VIP Travel. The only way for a tourist to visit the DMZ is by joining a tour.
Our original choice was to go for the JSA (Joint Security Area) tour. For that tour, you could visit those blue buildings (the UN command neutral zones) that are built half on North Korea and half on South Korea. Unfortunately that was unavailable during the dates we were there and we had to in fact wait for another month to have available slots. So we can't exactly say we have stepped on North Korean soil.
So a big heads up to those wanting to go on the JSA tour, BOOK WAY IN ADVANCE. The JSA + DMZ tour usually takes the whole day from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
The tour provided pick-up from our hotel at 7.40 a.m. after which it went on to pick others from various hotels. Passports are required for the tour!
Some of the stops covered on the tour included Imjingak Park, Freedom Bridge, the Third Infiltration Tunnel, DMZ Theatre and Exhibition Hall, Dora Observatory and Dorasan Station.
Imjingak Park
This park was built largely for the North Korean refugees who left North Korea during the time of the Korean War. Here you will see Mangbaedan, an altar for refugees to bow in the direction of their ancestral graveyards, the Peace Bell and the Unification pond among others.
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| Mangbaedan |
Also within Imjingak Park is the steam locomotive at Jangdan Station. This is a portion of the train that was derailed by bombs during the Korean War and riddled with more that 1000 bullets. It stands here as a symbol of the tragic history of the division of the two countries.
Ribbons tied to fences stating people's hopes and dreams of unification.
Walking on the freedom bridge...
A bridge built in 1953 to free some 12 773 POWs (prisoner of war) at the end of the Korean War.
At the end of it, you can see messages for family members still in North Korean.
DMZ Theater and Exhibition Hall
Within the theater, we watched a documentary on the history of Korea's division as well as the various tunnels found between the two nations.
The Third Infiltration Tunnel
A tunnel that was discovered on 17 October 1978 located about 52 km from Seoul that was made by the North Koreans. It is one of the four known tunnels between the two Korean countries built under the DMZ. The purpose of the tunnel is believed to be the means by which a surprise attack could be launched on South Korea.
It is possible to walk about 200 metres into the tunnel until the barricaded point. DO note that some portions of the tunnel are really low that we had to crouch down and proceed along in a crouch. It could get rather claustrophobic in the tunnel as well.
Dora Observatory
Looking into North Korea...
There far into the distance you will see North Korea's Kijong-dong (Peace Village), which the South Koreans call the Propaganda Village. They believe it is a facade overseen by North Korean military.
Dorasan Station
A railway station located in the civilian restriction line and a part of the Gyeongui line. It was built to be a point of connection between North and South Korea but it wasn't to be. Barely even used before the brewing tensions put an end to any travel between the two countries via the station.
Today the station is not used, mostly visited by tourist and guarded by South Korean soldiers. A ghost station awaiting the realisation of its purpose.
At the end of the tour, the bus does drop-off at two stops that you could choose to alight at - City Hall or Itaewon. We chose to get off at City Hall and spent the rest of the day doing some shopping.
Hyundai City Outlets
This is a huge mall just a short walk away from Dongdaemun market selling a wide range of goods. For those looking forward to some shopping like us...
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| We love shopping! |
Dinner at Gwangjang Market
Previously called Dongdaemun Market near Jongno5(o)ga. It can get quite crowded in the late evening / night. Strolling along the many stalls, we randomly stopped at one where the stall vendor was warmly inviting us to sit.
We ordered some TTeokbokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes) and Eumok Guk (fish cake soup). Both were really good though the tteokbokki can get a little too much if you are not a great fan of rice cakes. I love them though.
We got ourselves the Sikhye to drink too.
Walking back to our hotel, we came across this lantern-filled alley. Walking the streets of Seoul felt safe even late into the night.
Day 4 - Namdaemun Market, War Memorial of Korea, Myeoungdon, Hairtail Alley
Today was our last day in Seoul but since our flight was late in the night, the day was still full of possibilities!
Brunch at Nongdaemun Market
Walking over to Nongdaemun Market, we found ourselves in an alley filled with eating places.
Just randomly choosing an eatery, we got ourselves some Kimchi Fried Rice and Bibimbap.
Seated in the eatery like one of the locals!
Snack on some Hotteok (NOT TO MISS!)
I know it was too soon after a meal for us to get a snack but really we had seen great recommendation for this and passing by it, we just knew we had to get ourselves one of the savoury Hotteok. And it was one of the most yummilicious things I have eaten in Korea!!
Honestly if you try nothing else, this is one of the food items you shouldn't miss in Namdaemun Market!! The savoury hotteok. Simply delicious. We actually came back to purchase seconds within a few hours.
We also tried the sweet Hotteok. It was good too but nothing compared to the savoury one!
Brunch at Nongdaemun Market
Walking over to Nongdaemun Market, we found ourselves in an alley filled with eating places.
Just randomly choosing an eatery, we got ourselves some Kimchi Fried Rice and Bibimbap.
Seated in the eatery like one of the locals!
Snack on some Hotteok (NOT TO MISS!)
I know it was too soon after a meal for us to get a snack but really we had seen great recommendation for this and passing by it, we just knew we had to get ourselves one of the savoury Hotteok. And it was one of the most yummilicious things I have eaten in Korea!!
Honestly if you try nothing else, this is one of the food items you shouldn't miss in Namdaemun Market!! The savoury hotteok. Simply delicious. We actually came back to purchase seconds within a few hours.
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| Queuing for our hotteok |
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| This was really good! |
We also tried the sweet Hotteok. It was good too but nothing compared to the savoury one!
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| Sweet Hotteok |
War Memorial of Korea
A museum filled with information of Korean military history and the Korean war. From the outside itself, we saw many impressive structures depicting soldiers in their battle.
Unfortunately the museum itself was closed for the Korea Armed Forces Day event (1st of October) so we couldn't enter it. Got to see the exhibits on the outside though. We weren't kicked off the site so I assume its free for all to appreciate.
The War Memorial of Korea had some really good reviews. If you are a history buff or even if you aren't and would just love to know more about Korea - a country that has faced immense struggle and came out of it strong, then this is an important attraction to check it out. A bummer that we couldn't.
Myeongdong
And then we were back to the shopping district of Myeongdong, wandering among the numerous cosmetic shops and luxury departmental stores, restaurants, cafes and street food carts.
Entering shops and doing some last minute shopping. I got a cute monthly planner for the next year. Helped my friend to get Wanna One album.
Snacked on Tornado potato while combing the streets.
Walking by the Gong Cha place and feeling a little thirsty, we decided to get one of their drinks. And gosh, their Taro milk tea with pearls was blissful! I hadn’t tried it in Singapore before but sure am going to drink more of this good stuff once I am back.
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| Taro milk tea with pearls |
Dinner at Hairtail Alley (Namdaemun Market)
Just before we were due to fly back home, we went to have dinner at the Hairtail Alley, famous for their Galchi Jorim (Korean spicy braised hairtail stew). The dish was quite spicy but if you can take spicy food, I highly recommend you to try it. Do be careful of all the fish bones though.
Gyeranjjim (Korean steamed egg) was also provided as part of the set as well as some banchan (Korean side dishes).
And then it was a journey to Incheon Airport via the subway, returning the pocket WiFi that we had rented and nearly missing out flight home. It was one hell of an experience!
I have to say Korea really had a great many delicious food that I probably haven't even scratched the surface of yet. It truly has been one of the best culinary experiences I had on all my travels so far. I hope you will enjoy some of these great food there like I have.
**If you are planning to visit Jeju as well during your Korea vacation, here is my Four Days Jeju Itinerary. Meanwhile, have fun planning your holiday!!
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